Not really, I printed it at 20% infill and 3 layers but I do not think it makes any difference.
BTW: I need some scientific test now to test the efficiency of not having the center as a “press-able” part. I need to test it on people who do not know the hack. For the moment is just a “different” option, not an enhancement to Pokitto.
I often wish I had a 3d printer 
@spinal Check around you for maker or hacker spaces. You can get access to one in those places. I get access to one at my University, but there is also a hacker space near me that has a couple of them.
@eried I will try to test it on some people once I get my pokitto and will come back with the findings.
Get the cheapest one from Aliexpress or ebay, it is a great learning experience to assemble one of the cheapest ones, missing parts and joy. They go for under 200 USD /incl. shipment
But this is kinda of topic, we are becoming @Pharap
urg dont remind me i got a 2000€ cnc paperweight
This is why I asked this:
It would be good to be able to migrate discussions to their own thread so they can continue on a thread with the right title.
Clearly I’m not the only one with a tendency to go off track :P.
We have one of those in my town, but it’s quite new and most people don’t know about it. I’m pretty sure we’re a bit of an exception though, I doubt most towns in Britain have a ‘maker space’/‘hacker space’.
Ok. Gotcha!
Just me but I prefer the nes style d pad, I’ve never liked the Sony one it just feels uncomfortable and puts off a vibe of “this is just 4 action buttons not a d pad, we have always expected you to use the stick”.
I’d love to print this. Thanks for posting it on Thingiverse! As soon as I get my new Delta Go print head in, I’ll be sure to print this. 
@eried I think its really cool you went out and solved this “problem” so creatively.
The reason why I say “problem” is because I’m using Pokitto right now, and I can honestly say I never felt the movement of the dpad bothered me.
Nevertheless, your feelings about these kind of things are as valid as mine. I will definitely test it out myself.
Thanks! I agree with using the quotes for “problem”. I am the kind of people who buys another controller (so I end having like 8 controllers in drawers) if there is something odd with the old one, or can’t live with a dead pixel, etc. The d-pad felt strange for some reason, but I cannot say that this is the solution.
As I said, I am waiting for your Pokitto testing code (I still think there is something wrong with my C button) so I can run a double-blinded test on the d-pad to get to a final conclusion about the “problem” with some kind of reaction-test program.
I just uploaded it
https://os.mbed.com/teams/Pokitto-Community-Team/code/AnimationTest/
Once the animation runs, just mash buttons to see whats working and what not
Here’s the binary also
animtest.bin (255.6 KB)
Perfect, but sadly there is something wrong with my Pokitto:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/YxmSau1kTYL25OO62
The button seems properly soldered and there is no visible damage in the traces. The switch also works (conductivity test). Weird.
How do you test the C button before shipping the units? (I think this is also a hardware observation)
Every single unit was tested.
I agree something is wrong with the C button. There are very few things it can be, perhaps a failed solder joint that worked initially, but has opened after temperature changes.
Congratulations on finding the first actual hardware fault! The rest have been just software. You have won a new pokitto that will be dispatched to you asap!
Cold / incomplete solder on MCU side most likely. If you’re interested, check if you get 3V3 on one side of switch when running. Ground is the rightmost close to pcb pin on the PEX (extension connector) when looking at the front.
Awesome! Thanks @jonne
I am going to investigate the issue in the afternoon. Later, I can try to reflow the MCU and make a guide if I do not kill it for good. But I am going to wait for the working unit before killing the only one I have.
Haha! Been there, done that. Yep. A good plan.
Did you notice it: pressing opposite directions in my Arduboy ebook “The guy who never complains” can be useful sometimes…
Hi again,
There is 3.3v in the switch, but I actually already found the problem. I am not sure how the C button worked in your tests before shipping 
but it is actually not soldered:
So… I just put a blob of solder on the pins and cleaned it later with solder wick
My pokitto is fully working now (all the buttons)
